Starting to surf… It’s not always as glamorous as it seems

If you think surfing is just about picking up chicks and being trendy, you’re mistaken. You’d be better off hitting the club or downloading a dating app if you’re after more effective options.

There’s no other sport out there that requires the toughness and perseverance like surfing does.

First things first… you gotta be physically and mentally ready to face some serious waves, and obviously be willing to take wipeouts that you never thought you’d come out of. And don’t even get me started on the cold if you’re out there in winter without the right wetsuit.

If you’re really into surfing, you’ll figure it out pretty quickly. You’ll feel that strong connection, and once you experience it, it’s hard to get out of it.

Surfing has that special something that hooks you. Ask anyone who’s been swallowing water for more than 5 years… You’ll become addicted to the cold fingers, the tough moments, the lack of air, and the fear… Because after many wipeouts… when you catch your first wave in proper conditions… the addiction begins and you become a junkie for that feeling.

I’m not gonna lie, I’m sure while you’re chilling in the sun with a beer in hand, it all looks amazing, right? The waves! The paradise! I see myself catching those perfect waves, with that crystal-clear water and my hair blowing in the wind…

Come on, buddy… paddle out and start paddling, you’ll see how things start to change… You’ll feel like you’re at Mundaka’s Pipeline with 3-meter waves, and I bet the reality is that you’re in foam that barely reaches your knees.

Fear? What’s fear? At that moment, you’ll start feeling that tingling and trembling… And it won’t just be because of the cold… it’s called freaking out about what’s coming at you.

The sun doesn’t shine so brightly anymore, does it? Things have changed, and what was once the perfect postcard now feels like you’ve swallowed more water than you’ve ever drunk in your life.

So, here comes the challenge… and at that precise moment, you think… “Great, how did I get myself into this?” Well, you have two options…

Do you give up? Or do you control yourself, focus, and center yourself? I recommend you grit your teeth, remember all the technical explanations, and go for it.

We’ve all started at some point, so we’ve all felt this sensation. Patience is key in surfing, so without these really annoying moments, you won’t learn.

Only 8% of the time in the water is actually spent surfing, the rest is paddling, swallowing water, and floating. And if you’re a beginner, that 8% goes down to 3%, so gear up with a lot of patience because this is just the first step.

“Ah, it’s not that big a deal, anyone can catch waves like that!” You’ll hear that from people who don’t really know this sport, so to the words of fools… You know the saying…

You just need to stay focused. Ask a pro surfer or someone who’s been surfing for over 15 years… You only get to ride barrels and technical waves through a ton of perseverance and dedication.

If you fall in love with this sport, you’re going to suffer… but then you’ll see it’s for life.